Wednesday, 17 August 2011

A London Secret: Pssst do you know Chelsea Green?





Tucked a block or two behind the Sloane end of Kings Road in Chelsea is the food and beverage enclave of Chelsea Green which is the corner of Markham, Cale, and Elystan Streets. I ventured there to talk specifically the team of the Markham Inn which is due to open in the first week of September (left above across from the Boris Bikes).

The Markham Inn will be opening from 8 AM to 11 PM with an all day modern European menu. Focus on Slow Food but for those with only an hour there will also be an Express Lunch menu. Specials of the day will be paired with a glass of wine.

The wine list will be more towards the old world but with a select number of excellent new world wines. Many offered by the glass. There really is a broad range of styles but it's not a book with a zillion to pick from. The house pour Champagne is Ruinart with others including magnums of Dom Perignon, it is Chelsea after all.

The Markham Inn is surrounded by a plethora of other great food and wine locations to enjoy as well including:

The Pie Man http://www.thepieman.co.uk/home.html
The Chelsea Fishmonger http://www.thechelseafishmonger.com/
Jago Butchers http://www.jagobutchersofchelsea.co.uk/
Haynes Hanson & Clark wine merchants http://www.hhandc.co.uk/
Geales http://www.geales.com/Chelsea-Green/Welcome/index.html
Tom Aikens http://www.tomaikens.co.uk/ From Busto to...well check out the bottom photo!

Hope you get a chance to enjoy Chelsea Green soon.
























Thursday, 27 May 2010

English Wine Week


http://www.englishwineweek.co.uk

You’re perhaps not aware that it is English wine week starting this Saturday. I encourage you to go out and try an English wine or two. Quality has improved dramatically over the last five years and now English sparkling wines win gold medal awards globally.

My favourite is Balfour Brut Rose. Lite in colour it is aromatic with red berry and orange notes. Juicy on the palate with ripe red fruits from red berrys to ripe plum skin. Elegant, clean, and flavoursome on the finish. Try it at Kensington Roof Gardens, the Champagne Bar at St Pancras, The Champagne Bar at Westfield, or De Vere Hotels.

http://www.hushheath.com/balfour-brut-rose

Bibendum’s English range is adaptly named ‘Primrose Hill’. The label depicts not only the view from Regents Park Road but also of some the great icon’s of London life. Fashion, days in the park flying kites, and music. Anyone you knows me well can tell you that I have a huge passion for the Fender Stratocaster which began in 1985 whilst watching ‘Live Aid’ and continues to this day. See if you can spot the ' Strat ' on the label.







Two new vintage 2009’s from this range have just been released. The Primrose Hill Bacchus is very aromatic and somewhat close to the nose of Loire Sauvignon Blanc, green and fragrant. Lots of over palate ripe apple and pear flavours. The wine is lite in structure and ready to drink now. If you’d like to know more about the grape variety of Bacchus then link here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacchus_(grape)

I absolutely love the new Primrose Hill Rose. For me it is a wonderful food wine. It is perfumed with red currants and fresh raspberry. The Palate is beautiful sour cherries with elegant texture and acidity perfect for both red meat like BBQ and oily fish such as smoked salmon. This will definitely find its way into my summer repertoire.

If you’d like to try them then best call the Bibendum order line on 02074494120.



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Monday, 24 May 2010

To produce the best white wine in Marlborough, and have it enjoyed all over the World

To produce the best white wine in Marlborough, and have it enjoyed all over the World

I’m very excited about what is happening with New Zealand white wine at the moment. The Marlborough terroir help make the wines internationally unique. In fact I haven’t been this excited since Cloudy Bay released the first vintage of ‘Te Koko’. I’m particularly excited because it seems to me that the bigger wine companies are once again leading the way. This is incredibly important in smaller production areas like New Zealand where financial resources are limited. The bigger players have the financial will to invest in proper research and development which the whole regional industry will inevitably benefit from. They also can keep average quality high via financially challenging techniques such as crop thinning. The current release big brand Montana Sauvignon Blanc 2009 has been winning Gold Medal awards in many competitions for instance.

I recently tasted several parts in the style of the blend for the new Montana ‘Icon’ Sauvignon Blanc which will be released in 2011 at about £20 RRP. The key goal here is to make Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that will age. The Montana team have many sites to choose their wine from and have also started using both Wild Fermented and Cuve Fermented blending components. The result is Sauvignon Blanc that is rich in weight and texture plus far more complex in flavour whilst retaining that tell tale ripe acidity and clean green aromatics. http://www.montanawines.com/uk/index.php?reload=1 .

Another great step change for the international consumer is that much of the progress has been made outside of Sauvignon Blanc.

The Ned Pinot Grigio 2010: Lite rose gold in colour with soft apple on the nose. The palate is very fruit forward with tropical fruit salad particularly melons and guava. Some pepper and chilli notes blend with white currant plus beautifully ripe orange acidity. ‘Sessionable!’ A very unique style. Released in late 2010. http://www.thened.co.nz/

Wither Hills ‘Rarangi’ Riesling 2009: Medium aromatic intensity with honey dew. Lots of ripe citrus structure of lemon, lime, and mandarin. 13% with good weight and texture. The finish is very cleansing with fresh pea pod on the length. A real bench mark for Marlborough Riesling going forward. Just released now and my favourite of the wines highlighted here. http://www.witherhills.co.nz/

I recommend that you also look out for these ‘yet to be released wines’.

To find out more of what is going on with New Zealand wines then check here: http://www.nzwine.com/intro/

For more on Te Koko (you should know this wine): http://www.cloudybay.co.nz/Microsites/TeKoko


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Thursday, 20 May 2010

Egyptian Wines

I can't believe it but I've tasted some good wines made in Egypt. They're from the 'Casper' range of Sahara vineyards and include:

Casper Blanc de Noir (still) of Grenache 2009: A very unique wine with structure and a milky weight mainly from alcohol integrated with notes of cinnamon, aniseed, mint, and fresh pea pods. Very North African!

Casper Viognier 2009: Aromatic with ripe tree fruit. 13% with soft acidity, a creamy texture, easy drinking with a clean perfumed finish. A nice wine.

Check them out: http://www.saharavineyards.com/

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Wednesday, 19 May 2010

London Wine Fair Tips




If you can then I recommend a visit to the Wine Gang stand during the last
day of the London wine fair tomorrow, Thursday. The team have selected their
favorite 100 wines which are available right now. My top tips are:



http://2010.londonwinefair.com/



Vallado Moscatel Galego Branco 2009: Aromatic with ripe yellow grapes and a
slight salt note to balance. The palate is amazing and a part of me says
that it shouldn't work but it does. 14% with really fresh acidity and fine
tannin (this is a white wine). There is just so much good with a wonderful
combination of over ripe white fruit and loads of that grapey lush.



Benefizium Porer (Proper) Pinot Grigio 2008: A great wine to start the
evening and the experience emotionally is similar to when presented with a
really fantastic gin & tonic. Lite cut grass aromas. Beautiful texture,
elegant and fine green flavors of fresh pod peas with granny smith apples.
http://www.aloislageder.eu/eng/tor_wine_detail.php?id=56
&cat=WH



Flagstone Pinotage 'Writers Block' 2008: Deep red throughout; this should
be a proprietary color! Amazing aromatic intensity with lots of mixed herbs.
Fine structure incorporating sweet acidity with full fruit flavors of
which the 14% alcohol harmonizes well. A great wine!
http://www.flagstonewines.co.za/wines/flagstone-foundation-range/writers-blo
ck/



Gerard Bertrand 'Grand Terrior' Montpeyroux 2007: Mid pink hue to blood red
centre. Very aromatic of over ripe red tree fruit especially plums with
undertones of fennel and rosemary. The palate structure is integrated
tannins with ripe acidity. Balanced weight and texture provides the platform
for rich apple and soft tobacco flavors. http://www.gerard-bertrand.com/




A great local Chinese restaurant to visit during your trip is 'Yi-Ban' which
is only a couple of hundred meters walk east bound along the dock.
http://www.yi-ban.com/home.cfm




I recommend the dim sum platter of ha gau, snow pea & crab dumplings which
by no exaggeration is the best of this style I've ever experienced.




My favorite main is Sizzling Black Pepper Lamb served with onion and in siu
hing wine. They do seasonally dishes too and I currently recommend the 'Hot
& Spicy' Asparagus Scallops stir fried in XO sauce. If you're with
someone that prefers curry then they offer curried beef marinated and braised with
pepper, onion, and peas.




After a long day at the wine fair I suggest that you wash it all
down with a glass of Tsing Tao. Just what I needed!


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Bordeaux recent vintages




With all the hype around 2009 Bordeaux I thought it worthwhile relooking at a few vintages from recent years to see how they’re showing. So I recently tasted with the bar team from Greens in Cornhill the following different appellation wines which they list.

http://www.greens.org.uk/

Chateau Bonnet Reserve Rose 2009, Andre Luton, Entre deux Mers: I can’t believe that a wine this good can be so young as it is literally only a few months old. A vibrant crimson colour throughout, aromatic intensity with fresh red berries. 12.5% and crisp with some palate weight, creaminess of texture, so a good structure for food. Coupled with notes of over ripe tree fruit such as nectarines, peaches, plums, plus savory undertones thus a great wine by the glass as well. Very enjoyable and recommended.

Les Tourelles de Longueville 2006, Pauillac: Interestingly served in screwcap. Clear with a red hue to crimson. Drinking now with integrated tannins and ripe acidity. Concentration of weight harmonized with primary red fruit flavours. Soft notes of chocolate.

Phelan-Segur La Croix Bonis 2005, St Estephe: Stunning pink to true dark red. Softly aromatic with lite notes of cassis. Integrated elegant texture, good weight, and rounded acidity with soft tannins, 12%. Fruit forward so beginning to drink now but will last a lot longer. Notes of red apple skin, with the stone of apricot or peach.





Chateau Durfort-Vivens 2004, Margaux: Colour from vibrant plum skin to deep blackish red. Aromatic with notes of flowers, roasted lamb, and lite spice. A deep savory palate with undertones of dark nuts. Real concentration but yet to harmonise with oak, acidity, and tannin sitting apart.

Chateau Feytit-Clinet, 2003 Pomerol: Lite Orange to deep brick. Soft aromas of herbs and cooked chicken. Very forward with dark baked plums, fine soft tannins and ripe apple acidity. Secondary characters such as mushroom, black pudding, and oak. Drink now.

It is only a small sample size but key points are: Yes 2009 & 2005 are good years. Second wines are made to drink early. Hold on to 2004 Grand Cru Classe Margaux and make a point to myself to taste some more Medoc 2004s soon for comparison. Drink your 2003 right bank wines from now.




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Friday, 14 May 2010

Shakazulu South African cusine




Today I visited Shakazulu the new South African Zulu restaurant which opens in June. Michael Clark (ex sommelier now Shakazulu project manager) and I have just finalised the 100 bin all South African still wine-list and I’ve had the chance to see the fit out progress at the site. This included my first real life glimpse of the £2 million worth of intricate hand carvings depicting Zulu life. The interior is absolutely stunning and will be a wonderful draw card for visitors to Shakazulu in its own right. There is nothing like it anywhere else.






I’m also very excited about the potential of this venue not only to change the way that the South African dining experience is presented but also for the tremendous potential to do good in South African communities. Please check-out this enlightening YouTube posted by ex ITV and Sky presenter David Glencorse in March for further information on this charity work and the stunning interior:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLJs44xlXGg&feature=related


Coupled with this we on the wine side are working with wineries to contribute to the fund raising. The main focus is on Journeys End which has a history of commitment to assisting those in need and in supporting a wide range of charities. At the beginning of 2010 they have donated more than R 2.8 million through the Pegasus Charitable Trust. For every bottle of Journeys End wine sold at Shakazulu £1 will be donated to ‘Bayede’ which is a powerful job creation enterprise, endorsed by both the Zulu King His Majesty King Goodwill Zwelithini kaBhekuzulu and Her Royal Highness, Princess Queen Mantfombi, daughter of King Sobhuza of Swaziland.

http://www.bayede.co.za/

http://www.journeysend.co.za/default.htm

Shakazulu is also partnering with Saam Mountain which is perhaps best known in the UK for their contribution to comic relief. In 2009 they raised about £750,000 via the Red nose day wines. They receive wonderful reviews from the press as well. Tasting notes from Masters of Wine Jancis Robinson and Tim Atkin: "We taste thousands of wines each year and can honestly say that this honeyed Cape Chenin Blanc dramatically over-delivers for the price: real concentration of fruit yet with great tangy refreshment too.".

http://www.saam-mountain.com/





Earlier this year I travelled with Roger Payne who is the Managing Director of Shakazulu to the Cape Wineries to select the most suitable partners. The Graham Beck Sparkling wines were simply too hard to resist. Nelson Mandela toasted his 1994 inauguration with a glass as did Barak Obama his victorious election night. The Telegraph chose the Graham Beck Brut NV as one of the Ten best South African wines for 2010. The wine critic Matthew Jukes chose the 2005 Graham Beck Blanc de Blanc as his number 1 wine of the year. Roger visited both the estates in Robertson and Franschhoek and these are amazing so I highly recommend a visit if you have the chance.
http://www.grahambeckwines.co.za/

Newton Johnson winery restaurant ‘Heaven’ is in the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir tourist spot of Upper Hemel en Aarde Valley Hermanus. They helped the Shakazulu head chef Barry Vera develop ideas for our menu by allowing him to guest chef. We visited in search of great wine which we found in abundance. The cooler climate appellations in which they grow grapes account for elegant, mineral, supple and complex characters. The second visit was during harvest time and the whole extended family was working in the vineyards and cellars so Barry was more than happy pitch in and help out in the kitchen. You’ll remember 'Feast Bazaar' TV chef Barry from my blog about the new menu at the Cuban which he developed in consultation. For Shakazulu Barry will draw upon his experience working as Executive Chef at the internationally renowned Blues restaurant in Cape Town during it’s heyday , the breathtaking Table Bay Hotel and the Londolozi Game Reserve.

http://www.newtonjohnson.com/




Another key component of the wine-list is to help those guests with mainly knowledge of European wine to understand the links and relationship the old world has with South Africa. So listed will be wines from aperitif to dessert to highlight this.

Springfield owner Jeanette Bruwer hosted us for a delicious lunch in her home on the estate. Our visit had kept her from an annual Marlin fishing competition so beef was the order of the day. She is officially one of the Women in Wine. This is a international group which promotes the role of women in all aspects of the wine industry. She is a ninth generation descendant of the Bruères, French Huguenots who had come to South Africa from the Loire in 1688 with bundles of vines under their arms. Thus utilising the original winemaking techniques of the first settlers she approaches winemaking as a cultural and spiritual adventure. Is all about being one with the land and her Sauvignon Blanc’s certainly prove that it is a tradition worth keeping.

http://www.springfieldestate.com/

De Trafford Straw Wine (vin de paille) is the first of its kind in South Africa. Chenin Blanc grapes are laid out to dry on racks ( or straw ). This raisining process concentrates the sugar, acidity and fruit flavours to produce a luscious, sweet dessert wine. Fermented and matured in new French and American oak barrels for extra richness. The taste is simply WOW!

http://www.detrafford.co.za/




We also have listed farms that produce more than just wine so that the other 'home made' products might be incorporated into Shakazulu. Kloovenburg stretches along the lower contours of Kasteel (Castle) Mountain, where the north-easterly slopes have proved ideal for the Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon cultivars and the south-westerly and easterly slopes favour Shiraz. Coupled with the many awards for their Red wine Kloovenburg are also awarded Best South African Oil by Wine Magazine. Serene groves of grey-green olive trees cover 30 hectares of the estate. Drawing on the traditions of Mediterranean countries, Kloovenburg are also expanding the non-culinary uses of olive oil into the area of beauty products. These items will be on sale at Shakazulu in the retail area.

http://www.kloovenburg.com/

Shakazulu is located within Camden's Stables Market in London. You can't miss it, just look for the 45 foot statue of the King Shaka himself.





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Location:Hawley Mews,Camden Town,United Kingdom